Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition – 22 Days
Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition – 22 Days
Trip Overview
Island Peak (Imja Tse) Expedition (6,189m)
Island Peak is a popular choice for beginner mountaineers looking to gain experience at high altitude. It is often used as an acclimatization climb for higher peaks like Ama Dablam or Everest.
Key Information:
- Difficulty Level: Moderate to Challenging (suitable for beginners with some mountaineering experience)
- Best Season: Spring (April-May) and Autumn (October-November)
- Duration: Typically 15-20 days including trekking and acclimatization
- Route: Island Peak is usually approached from Dingboche or Chhukung, on the main Everest Base Camp trail.
- Technical Requirements: Basic mountaineering skills like use of crampons, ice axe, and fixed ropes.
- Highlights:
- Stunning views of Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam from the summit.
- The ascent includes crossing glaciers, crevasses, and snowfields.
Sample Itinerary:
- Day 1-8: Trek from Lukla to Chhukung via Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche.
- Day 9: Acclimatization at Chhukung.
- Day 10-11: Island Peak Base Camp and Summit Attempt.
- Day 12-15: Return to Lukla and fly back to Kathmandu.
Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812m)
Ama Dablam is a more technically demanding peak, often considered one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. It is an excellent challenge for experienced mountaineers.
Key Information:
- Difficulty Level: Highly Technical (requires prior climbing experience)
- Best Season: Spring (April-May) and Autumn (October-November)
- Duration: 25-30 days
- Route: The standard Southwest Ridge route is the most popular for ascending Ama Dablam.
- Technical Requirements: Advanced mountaineering skills including the use of ropes, harnesses, ascenders, and rock/ice climbing techniques.
- Highlights:
- Technically challenging ridges, vertical rock sections, and ice faces.
- The final part of the climb includes mixed snow and ice climbing.
- Iconic views of Everest, Lhotse, and other Himalayan giants.
Sample Itinerary:
- Day 1-8: Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp via Namche Bazaar, Pangboche, and Tengboche.
- Day 9-14: Acclimatization climbs and preparation at Base Camp.
- Day 15-25: Summit attempt via the Southwest Ridge with high camps at Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3.
- Day 26-30: Descent and return to Lukla.
Combining Island Peak and Ama Dablam
Many climbers opt to summit Island Peak first to acclimatize and train before attempting Ama Dablam. This combined expedition typically lasts around 35-40 days, making it an ideal combination for those seeking to enhance their technical skills and high-altitude experience.
Would you like more details on expedition providers or logistics for these climbs?
Itinerary
Fly to Lukla Airport (2840 m / 9317 feet) and trek to Phakding (2610 m / 8,562 feet)
Fly to Lukla Airport (2840 m / 9317 feet) and trek to Phakding (2610 m / 8,562 feet)
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet) + REST DAY - ACCLIMATIZATION
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet) + REST DAY – ACCLIMATIZATION
Trek to Phortse Village (3810 m / 12,500 feet)
Trek to Phortse Village (3810 m / 12,500 feet)
Trek to Dingboche (4350 m/14271 feet)
Trek to Dingboche (4350 m/14271 feet)
REST DAY @ Dingboche and ACCLIMATIZATOIN HIKE
REST DAY @ Dingboche and ACCLIMATIZATOIN HIKE
Trek to Lobuche (4910 m/16,108 feet)
Trek to Lobuche (4910 m/16,108 feet)
Trek to Gorak Shep (5,164 m /16,942 feet) trek to Everest base camp (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner)
Trek to Gorak Shep (5,164 m /16,942 feet) trek to Everest base camp (Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner)
Morning excursion to Kala Patthar (5,545 m / 18,192 feet) and trek back to Dingboche.
Morning excursion to Kala Patthar (5,545 m / 18,192 feet) and trek back to Dingboche.
Rest Day at Dingboche or Trek to Chhukung (4730m / 15,518 feet)
Rest Day at Dingboche or Trek to Chhukung (4730m / 15,518 feet)
Trek to Island Peak Base camp (5,000 m/16,404 feet)
Trek to Island Peak Base camp (5,000 m/16,404 feet)
Rest Day + Clinical course conducted by the Climbing Sherpa.
Rest Day + Clinical course conducted by the Climbing Sherpa.
Mid night wake up and set off for Summit (6,189 m / 20,305 feet)
Mid night wake up and set off for Summit (6,189 m / 20,305 feet)
Extra day in case of any weather circumstances.
Extra day in case of any weather circumstances.
Trek to Pangboche (3,930 m / 12,893 feet)
Trek to Pangboche (3,930 m / 12,893 feet)
Trek to Amadablam Base Camp (4600 m / 15,091 feet)
Trek to Amadablam Base Camp (4600 m / 15,091 feet)
Further Acclimatization - Base Camp Ritual (puja) and Clinical Climbing Course
Further Acclimatization – Base Camp Ritual (puja) and Clinical Climbing Course
Climbing Period – (Basecamp to Summit - 6,812 m/ 22,349 feet) and back to Base Camp
Climbing Period – (Basecamp to Summit – 6,812 m/ 22,349 feet) and back to Base Camp
Contingency days - for adapting to unforeseen circumstances
Contingency days – for adapting to unforeseen circumstances
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet)
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3450 m / 11,318 feet)
Trek to Lukla (2840m / 9317 feet)
Trek to Lukla (2840m / 9317 feet)
Mountain Flight to KATHMANDU or MANTHALI AIRPORT
Mountain Flight to KATHMANDU or MANTHALI AIRPORT
Include/Exclude
What's Included
- Roundtrip airport transfers
- Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu
- Roundtrip airfare from Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu
- Sagarmatha conservation permit fees
- Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS) fees
- All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
- All meals while trekking and climbing
- Scheduled restaurant meals while in Kathmandu
- Island peak and Ama dablam expedition Permit and Sherpas fee
What's Not Included
- Personal equipment
- Staff/guide gratuities
- Items of personal nature (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Medical rescue insurance
- Alcoholic beverages
- Satellite phone usage
Fixed Departure
Reviews
Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition was much tougher than I expected, especially the final push to the summit. The altitude and cold made it very challenging, but the views and the feeling of standing on top were absolutely worth it. It’s an experience I’ll never forget.
Ivan Volkov - Russia Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak and Ama Dablam Expedition was much tougher than I expected, especially the final push to the summit. The altitude and cold made it very challenging, but the views and the feeling of standing on top were absolutely worth it. It’s an experience I’ll never forget.
Ivan Volkov - Russia Island Peak And Ama Dablam Expedition
Climbing Island Peak and Ama Dablam was a journey of personal growth for me. I learned a lot about myself, my limits, and the importance of teamwork
Flixon - Germany Island Peak And Ama Dablam Expedition
Climbing Island Peak and Ama Dablam was a journey of personal growth for me. I learned a lot about myself, my limits, and the importance of teamwork
Flixon - Germany FAQs
How difficult is it to climb Ama Dablam?
Climbing Ama Dablam is highly challenging, requiring advanced mountaineering skills. It involves technical rock, ice, and mixed climbing, particularly on exposed ridges. Prior experience with high-altitude expeditions, fixed ropes, and steep technical sections is essential.
How hard is it to climb Island Peak?
Climbing Island Peak is moderately challenging, suitable for climbers with basic mountaineering skills. It requires glacier travel, fixed rope use, and some steep sections, making prior experience with ice axes and crampons beneficial. It’s a popular choice for beginners aiming to climb a 6,000-meter Himalayan peak.
How much does the Ama Dablam expedition cost?
The Ama Dablam expedition typically costs between $5,000 and $11,000 USD.
Is Ama Dablam harder than Everest?
Yes, Ama Dablam is technically harder than Everest, as it requires more advanced rock and ice climbing skills on steep, exposed sections. However, Everest’s altitude and physical demands make it more challenging in terms of endurance and acclimatization.
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